Ben's Backwoods stocks a series of Scandinavian blades by a company called Lauri. According to the description, these blades are high carbon, hardened to approx 59rc, and with unpolished blades. Like many puukko styles I see, they feature a very small secondary grind right at the edge. Razor sharp is absolutely right though.
The first model, below, is the basic 3". The intention was to shape the handle on this on to look like the rough template to the right. I wanted to use some of the Mora style shape to give it light finger grooves, a palm swell, but a flat, angled pommel. After receiving the blade, I was struck by how long the tang was on the 3" model. At nearly 5 inches, the tang seems too long for the blade, and lends itself to a pretty massive handle. That obstacle forced me to change the design slightly but still keep most of the features I was going for. All in all, the handle came out sizable, but not enormous. The wood is Leopardwood, matching the handline.You can clearly see the leopard pattern on the flat sides of the handle, a very distinct design.
The second model here is the 3.7", a slightly longer blade and slightly shorter stick tang, though still full length. The proportions on this version seem more logical and very comfortable. The wood of choice for this one was Bird's Eye Maple for the ends, matching the handline, and Zebrawood for the center.
Functionally, I still lean to the side of full width and length tangs for hard use. Aesthetically, I think stick tang knives win hand's down for visual appeal. I would confidently use a stick tang for just about anything I use a knife for. But for things like heavy batoning... this just wouldn't be my choice. And putting a handle on a stick tang knife is no difficult task, just a slow one! Unlike working with the relatively simple geometry of a full tang handle, stick tangs do require a bit more three dimensional planning, which has been a challenge for me.
The first model, below, is the basic 3". The intention was to shape the handle on this on to look like the rough template to the right. I wanted to use some of the Mora style shape to give it light finger grooves, a palm swell, but a flat, angled pommel. After receiving the blade, I was struck by how long the tang was on the 3" model. At nearly 5 inches, the tang seems too long for the blade, and lends itself to a pretty massive handle. That obstacle forced me to change the design slightly but still keep most of the features I was going for. All in all, the handle came out sizable, but not enormous. The wood is Leopardwood, matching the handline.You can clearly see the leopard pattern on the flat sides of the handle, a very distinct design.
The second model here is the 3.7", a slightly longer blade and slightly shorter stick tang, though still full length. The proportions on this version seem more logical and very comfortable. The wood of choice for this one was Bird's Eye Maple for the ends, matching the handline, and Zebrawood for the center.
Functionally, I still lean to the side of full width and length tangs for hard use. Aesthetically, I think stick tang knives win hand's down for visual appeal. I would confidently use a stick tang for just about anything I use a knife for. But for things like heavy batoning... this just wouldn't be my choice. And putting a handle on a stick tang knife is no difficult task, just a slow one! Unlike working with the relatively simple geometry of a full tang handle, stick tangs do require a bit more three dimensional planning, which has been a challenge for me.








































